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Until recently, rock climbing in the San Juans had been overlooked.
Over the past few years there has been a fair amount of new route development. In the
January 2005 issue, Rock and Ice Magazine had a feature article about
the climbing and culture of Ouray. Within a few miles of Ouray you can now find
five different rock types including limestone, quartzite, cutler sandstone,
conglomerate, and a hard metamorphic sandstone.
Telluride - (Illium Boulders, and more)
Ouray - lots of rock, but not very developed. Bring a
hammer and wire brush for cleaning.
Ouray - (Pool Wall, Sandias, Rock Park, Jimmy Cliff,
Overlook), Red Mtn. Pass.
Ouray Mountain Sports has a guidebook that covers
these areas.
Montrose - Dry Creek
Telluride - Falls wall, Bear Creek Canyon
Norwood and Naturita - see Charlie
Fowler's website
Ouray - Just above the hot springs pool is the Pool Wall. A few traditional routes exist here as well as the Waterfall Wall and the Sandias.
Black Canyon - The South Rim of the Black Canyon is one hour and the North Rim is two hours from Ouray. Multi-pitch traditional and big-wall routes exist here. This is an area of adventure and only for the experienced rock climber.
Escalante Canyon - Under two hours from Ouray and is similar to Indian Creek.
Paradox Valley - About two hours from Ouray and is also similar to Indian Creek.
Chimney Peak - features a 3-pitch 5.6 up a dramatic mountain.
Comments: bad rock, chimney climbing, tricky approach.
Weminueche - Just south of Silverton is the Weminuche
Range that has some large alpine walls and the popular Wham Ridge (5.6).
Mt. Sneffels - Features some easy summer routes and well
as the classic Snake Couliour. You can drive to almost
12,000 ft. to start this 14'er.
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