Ice Climbing

“Ouray is proof that God is an ice climber”
The world-famous Ouray Ice Park offers over 175 routes of all grades. It is a perfect place to learn on top rope, or to hone your skills on the latest bolted or gear-protected mixed nasty. Ice climbs in the backcountry are often susceptible to avalanche danger. The ice park also offers a safe haven so you can still swing your tools when avy conditions make the backcountry to dicey.

When the conditions in the backcountry are safe, however, the possibilities are endless. Accessible routes for the fledgling leader in the Skylight Area share vistas with moderate classics like The Ribbon (WI4, 3 pitches), which is steps away from the testpiece Bird Brain Boulevard (WI5 M5, 7 pitches), all a few mile/s drive out of town. Dozens of classic icefalls form around the passes near town – come by for route recommendations to suit your ability.

Ouray is also a great base camp for nearby ice climbing destinations in the San Juan Mountains. Across Red Mountain Pass, Silverton has stacks of long routes like Stairway to Heaven (WI4, 5 pitches) and Whorehouse Hoses (WI5, 3 pitches). In the other direction, the Telluride area boasts such famous adventure climbs as Bridalveil Falls (WI5+, 3 pitches) and the Ames Ice Hose (WI5/6 M6, 3-4 pitches), among many others. This is just scratching the surface – we sell guidebooks with clear topos and direction to the classics, and have the latest information about recent creations.

Ice Conditions
Routes like Cascade Falls, Gravity's Rainbow, Solar Circus, and Kennedys only come in after several days of cold cloudy weather and often start falling apart as soon as the sun hits them. Skylight, The Ice Park, Dexter Creek Slabs, Horsetail Falls, and Eureka are all pretty consistent in forming and staying around (usually around November/December through March). Many of the climbs in Eureka get sun by mid-day. Dexter Creek Slabs also gets sun later in the afternoon.

Nearby Ice Climbing Areas: Ouray Ice Park, Skylight, Red Mtn. Pass, Dexter Creek, Silverton, Eureka.

Links for more information:
San Juan Mtn. Guides - Call or email if you have ice climbing questions or are interested in being guided. (toll-free) 866-525-4925, or 970-325-4925.

Ouray Ice Park - Information regarding the Ice Park including maps and some topo infomation.

Ouray Ice Festival - Infomation about the Ouray Ice Festival held on Martin Luther King Jr. weekend in January.

Skyward Mountaineering - Current ice conditions

Avalanche - The Colorado Avalanche Information Center

ClimbingBoulder.com - Has information about local ice climbing; including directions, route info, comments, and ratings.